Historical Sabarimala Sree Ayyappa Temple is one of the
most ancient and prominent Sastha temples in the country. Located in the
Western Ghat mountain ranges of Pathanamthitta district in Kerala, Sabarimala
Sri Dharmasastha Temple is one of the few Hindu temples in India that is open
to all faiths. The shrine of Sabarimala is one of the most remote shrines in
southern India yet it still draws three to four million pilgrims each year.
Surrounded by mountains and dense forest Sabarimala is believed to be the place
where Ayyappan meditated. Perhaps the best known pilgrimage destination in
Kerala is Sabarimala. Sabarimala Sri Dharmasastha Temple is the most famous and
prominent among all the Sastha Temples. It is believed that "Parasurama
Maharshi" who retrieved Kerala from the sea by throwing his axe, installed
the idol of Ayyappa at Sabarimala to worship Lord Ayyappa.
The
pilgrimage begins in the month of November and ends in January. The temple
attracts pilgrims not only from the southern states of India, but also from
other parts of the country and abroad. The shrine gets thronged with devotees
especially during the main pilgrim season from November to January. The temple
stays closed during the rest of the year except for the first five days of
every Malayalam month and during Vishu (April).
Certain
customs are to be strictly observed if one has to undertake a pilgrimage to
Sabarimala. A pilgrim attending the Mandalapooja should observe austerities for
41 days. During this period, the pilgrim should abstain himself from non
vegetarian food and carnal pleasures. Pilgrims set out in groups under a
leader, and each carry a cloth bundle called Irumudi kettu containing
traditional offerings. Unlike certain Hindu temples, Sabarimala temple has no
restrictions of caste or creed. The temple is open to males of all age groups
and to women who have either passed their fertility age and those before
reaching the stage of puberty. The easiest route is via Chalakkayam, by which
one can reach the banks of the river Pamba by vehicle. Pamba is the main
halting point on the way to Sabarimala. From here one has to trek 4 to 5 kms to
reach the temple.
LORD AYYAPPAN THE LEGEND ( Story of Ayyapa
swami)
King Rajasekara
The
descendants of Pandya dynasty were living scattered in places like Valliyur,
Tenkasi, Shengottah, Achankovil and Sivagiri and in parts of Travancore, where
they were the ruling dynasty. The descendants of Pandya dynasty belonging to
Chempazhanattu Kovil, living in Sivagiri were given the right to rule the
country of Pandalam, by the King of Travancore eight hundreds years ago. King
Rajasekara was the direct descendant of this dynasty.
King
Rajasekara was a very talented, courageous and just ruler in all his dealings.
People were living happily and prosperously during his regime. However, the
king was very unhappy that he had no children and his subjects were also
worried that he had no heir to inherit his kingdom. As per the wish of the
queen, both of them prayed to Lord Shiva for blessing them with a child.
Ayyappan
Lord
Shiva, answered Rajasekara's prayer and ordered Dharmasastha to take the
avathar of Ayyappan . Ayyappan took the form of a baby with a golden chain and
bell around his neck and placed himself near the Pamba river.
(Dharmasastha
born to Lord Shiva and Lord Mahavishnu who was in the disguis of Mohini to get
back the Amrutham from the asuras and restore to the devas.)
King
Rajasekara who was returning after hunting in the forest adjoining the banks of
River Pampa, along with his men, heard a child crying from somewhere in the
forest. Surprised, he went round and reached the banks of River Pampa. There he
saw a beautiful and divine child (i.e. Ayyappa) kicking its legs and crying
out, and was in a dilemma whether to take the child to the Palace or leave it
there itself.
While
the King was engrossed in his thoughts, a Sanyasi (Yogi) appeared before him
and told the King that he need not be afraid of the child and take him to the
Palace and that the child belonged to Kshatriya dynasty capable of mitigating
all sufferings. The Sanyasi further stated that since the Child had a gold bell
around his neck, his name be called "MANIKANDAN" and when the child
completed twelve years, the King would know his divine history. After uttering
these words, the Sanyasi disappeared.
The
King of Pandalam was very joyous; he took the child to his Palace and briefed
the Queen about the incident. The King and the Queen, having prayed to Lord
Shiva, for a child, were very happy that they had been blessed with a child.
The people also felt happy that a heir to inherit the Kingdom after the King,
had been found.
The Diwan
However,
the Diwan of the Kingdom who was thinking that he would be the next crown after
Rajasekara was worried.
The
Study period of Ayyappan
He
was taught all martial arts and sastras and the Guru was surprised at his
brilliance and agility and the extraordinary talents. The Guru came to the
conclusion that he was not an ordinary child, but a divine power. After
completing his education under the Guru, Manikandan approached the Guru to
offer his Guru Dakshina.
When
Manikandan went to his Guru for his blessings, the Guru told him that he
already knew that he was a divine power and he was blessed for having been
given an opportunity to have Manikandan as a student. The Guru further told
Manikandan that he had one request to make and that was that his only son who
was dumb should be given the ability to speak. Manikandan called the Guru's son
and put his hands on his head and immediately thereafter the Guru's son began
to speak. Manikandan requested the Guru not to reveal this to anyone and went
to the Palace.
Birth of RajaRajan
In
the meanwhile, the Queen gave birth to a male child and the child was named
RajaRajan.
EnthronementKing
Rajasekara, impressed with the talents of Manikandan, decided to crown him,
treating him as his eldest son. He ordered the Diwan to make arrangements for
the same.
The Diwan's plot
The
Diwan started devising plans to prevent Manikandan from being crowned to the
throne and to annihilate him. He tried various methods including poisoning of
food, but failed in all these. However, Manikandan's body bore an injury due to
these and ordinary physicians could not cure it. Lastly, Lord Shiva disguising
himself as a physician, treated Manikandan's injury and cured him.
Having
failed in all his attempts to kill Manikandan, the Diwan approached the Queen
and told her that as she had her own son, it was not correct to crown a person
who came from the forest. He further told the Queen that since Arthasastra
itself has justified any misdeed if it was done to extract a good thing, he
would suggest that the Queen should pretend as if suffering from severe
headache and stomach pain and he would make the physician tell that only a
tigress' milk should be brought to cure the Queen and since Manikandan would
only go to the forest to bring the milk, he would be in danger from the wild
animals and even if Manikandan returned without bringing the tigress' milk, the
King's love for him would not be as before. The Queen, became a prey to the
Diwan's plot and agreed to do what he told, so that her son could succeed the
King to the throne.
The
queen's sickness
The Queen,
as told by the Diwan, cried out loudly that she was suffering from severe
headache and stomach pain and the King, believing this, called the Diwan to
bring in the best physicians to treat her. The Physician, brought by the Diwan
examined the Queen and told the King that the Queen had been suffering from a
dangerous disease and it could be cured only by applying Tigress' milk .The
King sent several of his men to the forest for bringing this milk. The King
understood that it was an impossible task and wanted his dear Queen to be cured
at any cost and offered half of his Kingdom to anybody who brought the Milk.
Manikandan's
persistence
Manikandan
asked the King to let him go to the forest promising to bring the milk.
However, the King told him that he was awaiting to be crowned to the throne
that he was also not of age and hence refused to let him go. Manikandan told
the King, in spite of his refusal, he had to go lest he would be cursed for not
curing the Queen. Since the King persisted in his refusal Manikandan wanted the
King to promise to do something he wanted. The King gave the promise and asked
him what he wanted and immediately Manikandan asked the King to permit him to
go to the Forest. The King felt disappointed that he had been tricked and with
no other alternative permitted Manikandan to go to the forest.
The
arrangements
King
Rajasekara made arrangements to send a group of his loyal men along with
Manikandan, which however was refused by Manikandan on the ground that the
tigress might run away seeing the crowd of soldiers.
King
Rajasekara sent along with Manikandan necessary foodstuffs and coconuts with
three-eyes, in remembrance of Lord Shiva. The Panchabuthas, sent by Lord Shiva,
accompanied Manikandan to Forest.
Visiting
Devaloka and destroying Mahishi
However,
on his way Manikandan, came to know the atrocities of Mahishi in the Devaloka,
he went there and fought a battle with Mahishi. During the conflict, Manikandan
threw Mahishi down to earth from devaloka and she fell on the banks of Azhutha
River. Manikandan clashed with her at Azhutha river again. At the end, of the
battle between Mahishi and Manikandan at Azhutha River banks, Manikandan
climbed up on her chest and danced violently. The impact of his dance was felt
on the Earth and Devloka and the Devas were afraid. Mahishi knowing that the
divine power dancing on her body was none other than the son of Hari and Haran,
prostrated before Manikandan and died.
(Mahishi-
blessed by Lord Brahma that nobody , except the son created out of the union of
Vishnu (Hari) and Shiva (Haran), would be able to kill her. She wanted to take
revenge upon the devas who killed her brother)
Malikapurathu
Amma
This dance
was witnessed by Lord Shiva and Mahavishnu from a place called Kalakatti. (It
is said that Leela, daughter of Kavalan, a Maharishi, due to her husband's
curse,was born as daughter of Karamban, with a face of Mahishi and freed
herself from the curse and obtained Moksha by the grace of Shri Dharmasastha,
which is described in Sabarimala Temple as Malikapurathu Amma, by which name
she has a temple there)
Comfort to
the King Rajasekara
After
killing Mahishi, Manikandan went to the forest for the tigress milk, when Lord
Shiva appeared before him and told him that though he had done good for the
Devas, still there was one main task and that was to give comfort to the King
Rajasekara who was very concerned about him. Lord Shiva further told him that
he could go to the Palace with Lord Devendran in the form of a tiger. With
Manikandan on the tiger, all female devas in the disguise of a tigress and male
Devas, as tigers started their journey to the Palace.
When
Manikandan, with the tigers, approached the Palace, the people who ridiculed
him when he started his journey to forest if he wanted a toy tigresses etc ,
really got panic seeing the violent bunch of animals and started running helter
shelter.
Revealing
of Manikandan's identity
Just then,
the same Sanyasi who appeared before King Rajasekara when he picked up
Manikandan at the forest as a baby, appeared again at the palace and told King
Rajasekara the real identity of Manikandan.
Hearing
this, the King stood in great surprise and silence. He saw Manikandan riding a
tiger and people running away. Seeing the King, Manikandan descended from the
Tiger and told him that since the tigresses were there, he could get the Queen
cured with their milk. King Rajasekara, fell at his feet and asked to forgive
him for whatever happened without his knowledge, and asked him to send back the
tigers as the Queens ailment had been cured the moment Manikandan went to the
forest. On that day Manikandan reached the age of twelve.
The temple
King
Rajasekara told Manikandan that the Diwan was responsible for all these things
and hence he should be punished. However, Manikandan told the king that he need
not punish the Diwan and all had happened only through the will of God, and he
told further that time had come for him to go to Devaloka since the task for
which he took avatar himself on the Earth is completed and asked the King what
boon he wanted from him and he was ready to give it as he was much pleased by
his devotion.
Immediately,
King Rajasekara told him that they wanted to raise a temple in his memory and
suggest a suitable place for the temple. Manikandan aimed an arrow which fell
at a place called Sabari, where in Sri Rama's era a Sanyasini called Sabari
observed Dhavam. Lord Manikandan told the King to build the temple in that
place and then he disappeared.
Foundation
stone for the building the Sabarimala Shrine and the purpose
As per
Saint Agasthya's advise, King Rajasekara laid the foundation stone for the
building the Sabarimala Shrine.
Bhagwan
Manikandan, had made it clear that he would grace only those devotees who offer
Dharshan after performing Vritha for fortyone days keeping themselves isolated
from family desires and tastes and leading a life like Brahmacharya, thinking
of good things always, and that while coming for his darshan, they shall carry
the holy irumudi on their heads, as the Bhagwan did when he went to the forest
to fetch tigress milk, and bathed in River Pampa raising slogans of Saranam and
climb the eighteen stairs.
The
completion of the temple
As graced
by the Bhagwan King Rajasekara completed building of the temple with eighteen
steps to reach it. When the King was thinking how to put Dharmasastha's figure
in the temple for darshan to devotees, he recalled the words of the Bhagwan,
the River Pampa was a holy river as River Ganga, Sabarimala was a holy place as
Kasi. Dharmasastha sent Parasuraman to Sabarimala who carved the figure of Lord
Ayyappa and installed it on the day of Makarasankranthi, the day on which the Makara
Jothi appears.
Every year
lakhs and lakhs of people throng to Sabarimala irrespective of caste or creed
and adorn themselves with garlands and irumudis, chants slogans on Lord
Ayyappa, bathe in holy river Pampa, climb up the eighteen steps and get the grace
of Lord Ayyappa, the Dharmasastha.
Adorning
the jewelleries on Ayyappan on the Makarasankranthi day
The Jewel
Casket is carried on head from the ancestral residence of the royal family of
Panthalam to the Shrine on that day. A Garuda, the Brahaman kite, follows this
ornaments carrying procession, hovering about in the sky. After these ornaments
are worn on the Lord the bird circles the temple in the sky three times and
disappears. Excited by this sight the devotees begin to chant "Swamiye
Saranam Ayyappa". A Star never seen before in the sky appears on the day
of Makara Jothi day before the sighting of the Jyoti. A Jyoti is seen for a
little time on the hilltop showing the presence of Swamy Ayyappan gracing his
devotees.
Sannidhanam
The layout
of the Ayyappa temple is believed to have originated from the specific
instructions of the Lord himself, who wanted Malikappurathamma, on his left a
few yards from Sannidhanam, and his trusted lieutenants Vavur and Kadutha to be
positioned as his guards at the foot of the holy 18 steps. The pilgrims worship
in this place also. This exemplifies the unique feature of the temple. The
temple is open to all faiths. The divine qualities like equality, fraternity,
tolerance, humanity etc.. are shining well in the pilgrims.
Ayyappa
cult gives much importance for the secularism and communal harmony and has
turned out to be a model for the whole world. Another significant aspect of the
pilgrimage is that all the pilgrims whether rich or poor, learned or illiterate
holding position or not master or servant are all equal before LORD AYYAPPA and
all address each other as AYYAPPA.
The
pilgrims on their sojourn to Sabarimala worship at Erumeli Sree Dharma Sastha
Temple and conduct "Petta Thullal". They also worship in the mosque
at Erumeli as a part of their pilgrimage.
According
to legend, the temple of Sabarimala and the deity of Ayyappa have always been
regarded as the Pandalam Raja's very own. So permission from the King has to be
attained before proceeding to the temple. To make it easy for pilgrims to
obtain the necessary permission, a representative of the king sits with all the
royal insignia, on a raised platform at the base of the Neelimala Hill. The
pilgrims offer a token amount (not necessary) to the royal representative, and
receive vibhuti from him.
This marks
the beginning of the steepest climb of the pilgrimage, the 3 km trek up the
majestic Neelimala Hill, atop which sits Lord Ayyappa in all his glory. The
pilgrims wind their way up the difficult trail in an unending stream, the hill
reverberating with the constant chanting of thousands.
At the
first sight of the Patinettampadi, the holy eighteen steps, a full throated cry
goes up from the devotees, "Swamiye Saranam Ayyappa!" It is the
realisation of a mission.
The shrine
of Lord Ganapati: To the south-west of the main temple is the shrine of Lord
Ganapati, known as Kannimula Ganapati. The special offering to this deity is
Ganapati homan.
Homakunda:
There used to be a large homakunda in front of the shrine, which burned
constantly, fed by the coconut shells thrown by the devotees, after offering
the ghee. As the coconut shells gets consumed by the fire, the sins of the
devotees are believed to be cleansed. Due to the growing crowds in the temple,
the homakunda has now been shifted to a location below the temple.
Bhasma
Kulam: About a 100 metres away is the shrine of Malikappurathamma. En route to
the shrine is the temple tank, Bhasma Kulam, in which hundreds of devotees take
a holy bath in memory of the tapaswini Sabari who entered a fire to end her
mortal life. It is after her that the peak is named Sabarimala.On account of
the number of people who bathe in the tank, the water is frequently drained out
and refilled with fresh water.
Malikappurathamma:
Situated on a small hillock, the Malikappurathamma temple houses the shrines of
the Devi and Kaduthaswamy. Devotees also worship a trident and lamp here, and
offer coconuts. The coconuts are not broken, however, but are just rolled on
the ground .
To the
left of this temple are the shrines of the snake god and goddess, Nagaraja and
Nagayakshi. Here, tribals beat on drums, play stringed instruments and sing
sarppa pattu to protect devotees and their progeny from the harmful effects of
snakebites.
Shrines of
Kaduthaswamy and Karuppaswamy: At the foot of the Patinettampadi are the two
shrines of Kaduthaswamy and Karuppaswamy, who stand like dwarapalakas or
guardians of the holy steps, to ensure that they are not polluted by those who
tread on them without fulfilling the rigid austerities required of them. They
are also believed to protect the devotees from the evil spirits of the forests.
According
to legend, Kadutha was a great warrior who helped the Pandalam king defeat the
armies of Udayanan and other enemies. When the king came to Sabarimalai to
reconstruct the temple, Kadutha came with him to protect him. Ultimately, he
became so attached to Ayyappa that he decided to spend the rest of his days
with his Lord.
Also near
the Patinettampadi is the shrine of the Muslim Vavurswami. While there are
several accounts of identity of Vavur, it is generally believed that he was a
warrior who was defeated and subdued by Ayyappa, and later became a close
associate. It is believed that Lord Ayyappa himself instructed the Pandalam
king to build a mosque for Vavur at Erumeli and a shrine at Sabarimalai.
Renovations
Done:
Built on a
plateau about 40 feet high, the Ayyappan temple commands a lofty view of the
mountains and valleys all around. The ancient temple has been rebuilt after a
fire in 1950, consisting of a sanctum sanctorum with a copper-plated roof and
four golden finials at the top, two mandapams, the belikalpura which houses the
altar,and the flag-staff. Replacing the earlier stone image of the deity is a
beautiful idol of Ayyappa in panchaloha, an alloy of five metals, about one and
a half feet.
The
original granite steps were badly damaged due to continuous breaking of
coconuts on the steps by pilgrims climbing the steps. The Devasom Board with
the approval of Lord Ayyappan through a devaprasanam, covered the steps with
panchaloka. The work was completed by 15th November 1985. Later on these steps
were covered with gold.
Several
myths persist regarding the significance of the Pathinettu thripadikal or the
18 holy steps, but almost all of them stress the importance of the number, 18.
According to a popular belief, the first 5 steps signify the five indriyas or
the senses (eyes, ears, nose, tongue and skin), the following 8 the ragas
(tatwa, kama, krodha, moha, lobha, madha, matsraya, and ahamkara), the next 3
the gunas (satwa, rajas and thamas) followed by vidya and avidya
41 Days Vrath Observed by Ayyapa bhakters
1.One
should strictly practice one mandalam(41days) of brahmacharyam(celebacy)
2.One
should respect and take blessings from parents
3.One
should love and help good peoples
4.One
should treat all the creatures of world as swamy
5.One
should drop ego,anger n Lust
6.One be
prepared for accepting sacrifices in their lives
7.One
should teach the other Swamis about the spiritual n religion
8.The
people who starve for food should be helped by providing food how much if can
9.We must
not get attracted to the material factors
10.Material
satisfaction should be avoided
11.In the
motivation of money one must avoide competition
12.One
shouldnt get ego for others achievement
13.If
possible practicing yoga for mental strength n control is good
14.During
this time its good avoiding,soaps,powder.hairoil, perfumes,hair cut,shaves,Nail
cut..etc
15.One shouldnt
torcher any living beings in the earth
16.One
shouldnt stole anything
17.One
shouldnt lie in court infront of judge
18.We
shouldnt stand guarante for illegal issues
19.In the
period time of girls one shouldnt enter their houses
20.Without
chanting Swamie Sharanam Ayyappa shouldnt enter any houses
21.Without
knowledge if anyone who does wrong things one should be guided them to good
path
22.Mentally
or physically or verbally one shouldnt cheat others
23.we
should see everything equally
24.One
should be carefull in lending money
25.One
should Eat in limit
26.unwanted
thoughts shouldnt be given place in heart
27.In
political matters shouldnt be interfered
28.In the
gain of huge profit in Buisiness one shouldnt sell products
29.One
should help poor peoples who carry lot of weights
30.One
should plant trees which gives furits
31.One
should read good Epic stories of god n practice n teach others
32.One
should always remember in mud,stone,water..etc every where Ayyappa jyothies (celestial)light
power is situating n shouldnt be forgotten
33.In the
name of other religion we shouldnt think or treat them as low
34.One
shouldnt take angereness or bad name from others
35.Even in
the middest of tuf situation we shouldnt loose temper
36.Tobacco
and liquor shouldnt be used
37.Good
thoughts from good stories should be practiced
38.One
shouldnt speak in anger to any one
39.Before
sunrise one should take bath
40.always
chant sun god mantra n satisfy sun god
41.Swamiye
Sharanam Ayyappa mantra should be chanted always and should be teached to other
Swamis also
MALA DHARAN MANTRAM.
Before
wearing mala one mustchant the below
mantra.Jnaanamudraamshaastrumudraamgurumudraam
namaamyahamVanamudraamshuddhamudraamrudramudraam namaamyahamShaantamudraam satyamudraamvratamudraam
namaamyahamShabaryaashrama satyenamudraam paatu sadaapi mae.
Meaning :
lord sastha you are the Guru and knowledge bypurest forest mala and shivamala i
bow my head. The truth and peacefull place Sabarimalavrath mala i am wearing.
The truest Sabarimala vrath mala always be behind of me with safeguarding me.
A MANTRA BEFORE TAKING BATH IN PAMPA
DharmaSasthru
padhaambojjamShudatheerthathmagam bhajePithrushappa vimukthayaPampatheertham
NamamyahamJanmajanmaathiradarithradooreithamamNivrithe Papakam
vandePampatheertham gayasamam
Meaning:A
water which as a purity as dharma sastha feet which purifies once ancestors
sins and purifies the problems of next re-births and pampa holy water purifies
the all sins! I bow my head
18 STEPS MEANING OF SABARIMALA.
1st step-
Getting knowledge and consciousness to make think is called first step.
2nd step-
The bhakters ultimate consciousness is second step. Dvaita & advaita are
same. Advaita means God & Dvaita means soul.
3rd step-
vision or insight, imagination, understand, act, excercise, law to be connected
with intellect.
4th step-
pure consciousness image of knowledge it refers.
5th step-
not in pure form & enlightened like bhagavathi gods form.
6th - past
several births (purva janam) goodness if we climb sixth step and we can see
lord shiva.
7th step-
will-power, we will have will-power to get god blessing
8th step-
yaga inner form. rahoyagam.
9th step-
supreme celestial light , "paramjyothis" in order today also
"makara jyothi" is seen.
10th step-
meditating and knowing universal supreme lord.
11th step-
ascetic meditating. God and devotee uniting.
12th step-
samadhi non dualistic state of consciousness.
13th step-
atma, soul changes happens.
14th step-
supreme brahma, indicates knowledge person god subramanian. Ultimate supreme
brahma is also called this step.
15th step-
nadabrahma means ecstasy continues.
16th step-
jyothiswarupa- illumination of god. A supreme effulgence, the proper form of
god.
17th step-
trigunathitha means tri characters of god
18th step
- which is considered as parama feet- the ultimate supreme feet of lord ayyappa
swamy.
Swamiye sharanam ayyappa.
18 HILLS ASSOCIATED WITH SABARIMALA
1.
Ponambalam medu
2.Kundall
mamala
3.Sundara
mamala
4.Nagranezum
mala
5.Ingiparakota
6.Karinira
mamala
7.Mayiladum
mamala
8.Chittambalamala
9.Sripadam mala
10.Pudhusheri mamala
11.Madangga mala
12.Kalkimaleshwara mamala
13.Nelakkal shivamala
14.Thalapara mala
15.Devar mala
16.Kalakatti mala
17.Neelimala
18.Sabariponnmala Sabarimala
Swamiye sharanam ayyappa
Trek Routes
After
filling the holy coconut with ghee and packing the essentials for offering to
Lord Ayyappa in the Irumudi (called ketunira), the Guru places the sacred
Irumudi on the head of the pilgrims chanting Saranam. The pilgrims leave the
place without looking at anyone or bidding goodbye to family or friends.
Walking barefoot the pilgrims proceed to realise his Self and attain Lord
Ayyappa.
It was
below 5000 persons who visited Sabarimala 50 years ago, but with the coming of
the road from Mannarakulanji to Chalakayam, this number has increased to 4
crores, that too in the Madala- Makaravilakku season alone.
It was too
difficult for the people to reach Sabarimala before 50 years as the journey
through the dense forest was so grueling an ordeal as it took days to reach the
abode of God.
There are
three routes to Sabarimala (0929 North 7706 East) - (a) The Erumeli route (b)
The Vandiperiyar route (c) The Chalakayam route. The Erumeli route is the most
arduous and the pilgrims cover about 61 km on foot through forest and hill
track. The Vandiperiyar route starts at 94.4 km stone on the Kotayam - Kumili
road. The Sannidhanam is about 12.8 km from here. TheChalakayam route is the
easiest of all. Chalakayam is near Pampa river. Sannidhanam is just 8 km from
here.
The people
had to walk from Erumeli to Sabarimala via Peroorthodu, Kottapadi, Kaalaketti,
Azhhuthamedu, Kallidaamkunnu, Inchipaarakotta, Karimala, Valiyaanavattam,
Cheriyaanavattam, Pamapa, Neelimala ,Appachimedu, Sabareepeedom, and Saramkuthi
through the forest.
Another
path was also used by people to reach Sannidhanam. That was from Kumily through
Changara Estate, Uppupaara and Paandithavalam, but it was the route from
Erumeli that people used regularly.
The Route-
Laaha to Chalakayam has a history hidden behind it. This path was actually
built not for the devotees to reach Sabarimala.
It was
during 1959-60 that the road was built as part of the Sabarigiri power project
that came into being in 1967. Before this project actually started, the
Electricity Board tried to bring in a project named ˜Swaami Saranam",
which intented to build a dam at Thriveni to produce electricity. For this the
board extended the road ( Mannarakulanji- Laaha) to Chalakayam. As time passed
the Sabarigiri Project gained importance and to make it a reality another road
was made from Chalakayam to Ponnambalamedu. As the Sabarigiri Project became a
huge success the Swaami Saranam Project was dropped. Later another road was
built from Plapalli to Muzhiyaar via Aangaamuzhi. This is the present
Sabarigiri road.
Eventhough
there was the Chalakayam Road KSRTC started service through this path only in
1965. The road from Chalakayam to Pampa was built only 7 years later.
With new
routes in the chart the journey to Sabarimala may get more easier with the
glory of the traditional paths dwindling at a rapid pace.
There are
three routes to Sabarimala (0929 North 7706 East)
(a) The
Erumeli route - the most arduous - the pilgrims cover about 61 km on foot
through forest and hill track.
(b) The
Vandiperiyar route - starts at 94.4 km stone on the Kottayam – Kumily road.
(c) The
Chalakayam route. - the easiest of all. Chalakayam is near Pampa river.
Sannidhanam
is just 8 km from here.
From Tamil Nadu:
1.
Shencottai - Punalur - Pathanamthitta --170 Kms. 2. Kumily – Vandiperiyar -
Erumeli - Plappalli--180 Kms.
The
Erumeli route, used by Ayyappan himself during his forest expedition to kill
Mahishi is described here.
Erumeli
It is
about 56 km from Kottayam. There are shrines for Lord Dharmasastha and Vavar
Swamy (the Muslim lieutenant of Lord Ayyappa).The first timers to Sabarimala,
called Kanniswamy, perform pettatullal. Pettatullal is painting the face with
colours and dancing with wooden weapons to make one look odd. The essence of
this practice is to give up ones' ego and surrender to Lord Ayyappa. They go
round the Ayyappan Temple and Vavar Shrine and later bathe in the river. Then
the temple is visited again to seek authorization from Lord Ayyappa to tread
the sacred hill Sabari. Later the pilgrims leave Erumeli under the guidance of
their Guru for Sannidhanam.
Perur
Thodu
It is a
river about 4 km from Erumeli. Lord Ayyappa rested here during his expedition.
It is from here the rise begins. Giving alms here is important. By giving alms,
one is disposing of all dharma and seeking asylum in Ayyappa. The forest beyond
Perur Thodu is poongavanam (Ayyappan's garden).
Kaalaketi
About 10
km from Perur Thodu is Kalaketti. The legend says that Lord Shiva, Ayyappa's
father, came on his ox and tied it here and witnessed Lord Ayyappa killing
Mahishi. There is a shrine where the pilgrims light camphor and break coconuts.
Azhutha
Azhutha
river, a tributary of Pampa, is about 2 kms from Kalaketti. On the far side of
the river is the steep Azhutha hill, famous for its arduous track. In the 2 km
of steep ascent there is hardly anyone who does not shed tears. At the summit
of Azhutha is Kallidumkunnu. The pilgrims drop the pebble taken by them from
Azhutha river here. This is done as the mortal remains of Mahishi was cast off
from here and filled with stones.
Inchipparakota
The next
important place is the Inchipparakota where there is Kotayil Sastha shrine.
Pilgrims offer prayers here and break coconuts. From here the pilgrims descend
the slippery path carefully. The descent ends at Karimala thodu (canal) with
Azhutha hill on one side and Karimala hill on the other. Pilgrims rest here for
a while.
Karimalai
Karimala
is the abode of elephants which visits the Karimala canal to drink water.
Pilgrims light the aazhi (campfire) to protect themselves from wild animals and
cold weather. Karimala hill consists of seven levels and is climbed in stages.
As the ascent of 5 km is difficult the pilgrims continuously chant saranams. On
top of Karimala the terrain is flat suitable for the pilgrims to rest. It is
interesting to see the Nazhikkinar - a well within a well with fresh spring
like water. Prayers are then offered to Karimalanthan, Kochukaduthaswami and
Bhagawathi, all deities. From here after the exhausting descent one reaches the
Pampa river that is about 5 kms.
Pampa Nadi
Pampa is
the most important and holy spot on the way to Sannidhanam. It is here that
Lord Ayyappa was found by King Rajasekara. The Pampa river is as holy as the
Ganges. The Pampa water purifies one from curse and evil.
Pampa
Feast
Pampa
Annadhanam (feast) and Pampa Vilakku are important rituals followed at the
Pampa bank. Pilgrim groups prepare feast with the provisions taken from the
Irumudi of the pilgrims. Thousands of pilgrims are fed at Pampa. When a group
of pilgrims are ready to feed the fellow pilgrims they display a large papad
outside their cottage. It is usually the kanniswamy who are fed first, as they
are considered to be Lord Ayyappan himself. After the feast the Guru is
honoured by pilgrims prostrating before him and offering him the Gurudakshina. Kanni
Ayyappas move from kitchen to kitchen collecting the ashes which are considered
to be very sacred. It is done with the belief that Lord Ayyappa would have had
the feast in one of the cottages in the disguise of a pilgrim. The ash is taken
home as prasad.
Pampa
Vilakku :
At sunset
the pilgrims believe that Lord Ayyappan will be present at the banks of Pampa
and the cottages are decorated with lights and candles. Small floats are
decorated with lights called Pampa Vilakku and are let in the Pampa river.
The next
morning after a dip in the cold Pampa river and performing pitru darpanam
(offering to ones' departed soul) the pilgrims start their ascent towards the
hill Neelimala after worshipping at the temple of Lord Ganapathi, Lord Rama
(avathar of Balaji) and Lord Hanuman. On the foot of the Neeli hill is the
representative of the King of Pandalam. The pilgrims offer their respects to
the representative. After seeking the permission of the representative to visit
the shrine of Lord Ayyappa they proceed with their journey. From here the
Sannidhanam is about 6 km. The neeli hill is as difficult as the Azhutha and
Karimala. The top of Neeli hill is called Appachi medu. Here there are two
abysses - Appachi kuzhi and Ippachi kuzhi. Kanniswamys throw rice balls here to
calm down the evil spirits present around the place. From this point the ground
is almost even. Some distance from here is the Sabari peetam.
Sabari
Peetam :
This was
the Kota where Shri Sabari, in Sri Rama's era, performed Tapas. Pilgrims
worship here breaking coconuts, firing crackers and lighting camphor.
Saramkuthi
:
Half way
between Sabari Peetam and Sannidhanam is Saramkuthi. Kanniswamy leave the
wooden arrow they picked from Erumeli here.
Patinettampadi
:
The holy Patinettampadi (18 steps) is 15 minute walk from
Saramkuthi. The Golden steps is such a magnificent sight. Pilgrims chant
saranams loudly. After breaking the coconut they climb the 18 steps to have the
darshan of Lord Ayyappa
